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Sardinia Beach Guide: La Pelosa, Cala Luna, Costa Smeralda

Milica Filipović Rakić

Milica Filipović Rakić

June 27, 2026

Sardinia Beach Guide: La Pelosa, Cala Luna, Costa Smeralda

People keep comparing Sardinia to the Caribbean, and for once the comparison is not lazy marketing. The water along Sardinia's coast really does shift from pale mint to deep emerald within a few metres, and the sand on the northern beaches is fine enough to squeak underfoot. What the postcards leave out is that the island is huge, the second largest in the Mediterranean, and its best beaches are scattered across four very different coasts. This guide walks you through them, region by region, so you can plan a route instead of a wish list.

La Pelosa: the north-west showstopper

Start with the beach everyone has seen online. La Pelosa sits at the tip of the Stintino peninsula, facing the island of Asinara, and its lagoon-shallow water stays waist-deep for a hundred metres. It is glorious. It is also strictly managed: in peak season daily visitor numbers are capped and you need to reserve your spot online in advance, for a small fee. Book a morning slot, bring a beach mat (bare towels on the sand are banned, to protect the beach), and you will understand the fuss within thirty seconds of arriving.

The Gulf of Orosei: coves for the adventurous

The east coast is where Sardinia stops being gentle. Limestone cliffs drop straight into the sea along the Gulf of Orosei, and the beaches here are coves you earn.

  • Cala Luna is the classic: a crescent of pale sand backed by huge natural caves, reached by boat from Cala Gonone or by a two-hour coastal hike through the Supramonte. The caves give you shade at noon, which matters more than you think in July.
  • Cala Goloritze was named the most beautiful beach in the world in 2025, and access is now regulated with mandatory online booking. The reward for the steep hike down is a limestone needle rising out of water so clear that anchored boats look like they are floating on air.
  • Cala Mariolu is the snorkelling pick, with white pebbles that make the sea glow.

Boat tours from Cala Gonone typically cost around 70 to 100 euros per person for a full day and hit several coves. If you only have one day on this coast, that is the way to spend it.

Costa Smeralda: glamour with public access

The north-east corner is the famous one, built in the 1960s as a playground for people with yachts. Here is the good news: every beach in Italy is public by law. You can lay your towel on Spiaggia del Principe or Capriccioli next to guests of hotels that charge four figures a night. Porto Cervo itself is worth an evening stroll for the marina and the people-watching, then retreat somewhere calmer for dinner. San Pantaleo, a small village in the granite hills nearby, has a lovely Thursday market and far better prices.

The west: Alghero and its coves

The west coast around Alghero deserves more attention than it gets. The town itself is a walled Catalan outpost with sea walls made for sunset drinks, and within a short drive you have Le Bombarde and Lazzaretto, two compact bays of clear water framed by pines, plus the long family-friendly stretch of Maria Pia with its dunes. The headland of Capo Caccia looms over all of it, and beneath the cliff hides Neptune's Grotto, a cave system you can reach by boat or by a dramatic stairway cut into the rock face. When the wind ruins a beach day, the grotto is your plan B, and honestly it is good enough to be plan A.

The south: Cagliari's coastline

The area around Cagliari gets overlooked by first-timers, unfairly. Poetto, the city beach, runs for kilometres and fills with locals on summer evenings. Drive an hour west and you reach Chia and Tuerredda, where dunes and juniper back water that rivals anything up north, usually with fewer crowds and easier parking. On the road between them you pass Nora, a ruined Roman and Phoenician town right on the water, which makes a fine excuse to break up the beach schedule with a little history.

Whichever coast you choose, a few habits make every beach day smoother, learned the hard way over several visits.

  • Arrive before ten or after four. Sardinian light is kindest then, and so is the parking situation.
  • Bring water shoes for the pebble coves of the east coast; Cala Mariolu is beautiful and unforgiving on bare feet.
  • Pack a snorkel even if you never use one at home. The visibility here converts sceptics.
  • Check the wind forecast, not just the weather. The mistral can turn a west coast beach wild while the east coast stays flat calm, so keep both sides in mind.

How to build your route

A car is close to essential; public transport reaches beaches near Cagliari, Alghero and Olbia, but the coves in between belong to drivers. A sensible first trip pairs one base in the north (Alghero or the Olbia area) with one in the east or south, a week for each side if you can spare it. If you are comparing islands, Sardinia is wilder and quieter than Mallorca and greener than Rhodes, with a fraction of the package-resort feel.

WAYLY runs Sardinia packages from 1470 euros with flights and hotel sorted, which takes the logistics sting out of an island this size. Have a look at the current arrangements and pick your coast. My advice, for what it is worth: the east coast coves first, while your legs are fresh.

SardiniaItalybeachesCosta Smeraldaisland travelMediterranean

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Milica Filipović Rakić

Milica Filipović Rakić

Glavni urednik

Editor-in-chief at WAYLY. For over a decade she has turned Mediterranean coastlines, Greek islands and the Turkish riviera into honest, practical travel guides for travellers from the region.

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